THE BATTALION
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 16, 1980
eni
er
traditional French cuisine changing
Author says changing lifestyles alter meals; scoffs at ‘novelle cuisine'
' H ^raaroinj# United Press International
Wets to cut^. PARIS — French food, one of the
y 10 petcj,! iorld’s great cuisines, has changed
Blrkahly during the past 20 years,
Braniffeit l utt ^ c nouvelle cuisine,” or new
leadersthtj jisine so widely trumpeted by some
iu ld follow J iph thefs is a myth, said a French
lay cut co:. lotiscwife-mother-grand mot her
we also (WV
auld becotk I ”' u ‘ re is o nl y a new approach to
jaditional French cuisine,” said
niff employ pisette Bertholle, one of France’s
sfmancialn, KSt^known cookbook authors and
vrence Br! teachers,
ley say’ll “Til e traditional cuisine still is the
empttofastM You are finished if you don’t
■class aiiLuHthe basic rules,” Bertholle said
;ulation in K 11 an interview following publication
mudimn,.; Itlf American edition of her third
t roT M'‘ FrenchCuisinefor Al1 ”(Dou-
aniffsubo£tT Vr 9 ?-' ^ f ° Urth b ? ok ’
e time tk® onal Cookin g’ 15 a curr ent best
m y ellerin France and soon to be trans-
“There is only a new approach to traditional
French cuisine, ’’saidLouisette Bertholle,
one of France’s best known cookbook
authors and cooking teachers. “The
traditional cuisine still is the base. You are
finished if you don t have the basic rules. ”
akes
d The interview took place in
snapped op' J r p H lter ’ S Left Bank a P art ment
11 1 !l “Ranted to write of the changes
'> die airliif4 French cooking from the years
es where I first studied cuisine*in 1950
establish'ffil970 — tremendous changes,”
lied outofv:,ptholle said, “but only now can we
it had enter : fee them because they came very
flights, ilowly.”
nonths Br I ft 6 sai ^ changes did not mean
snfpm’nuB’-afilod nouvelle cuisine, that
it of it!lW en over a l ianc fi u l °f Paris res-
omc of to :W' $ anC * stormec l Frenc fi res-
...j „„„ u.Hits across the United States.
Hie friendly, auburn-haired au-
hof laughed at some nouvelle
" ' Hie restaurants she visited re-
i many profcLifiy j n the United States, which
clear assets !:' W fl)pose” handsome plates of food
ensive andt£|jtj stripes of multi-colored veget-
erseas routtii.ylhere, a tiny piece offish there,
eveloped, "In one restaurant in Boston we
ivith Eastern iHed pieces of ice atop raw veget-
dving Brail; hies,” she said,
id with Mid-C; She said changes in approach to
S. MidwestkE
1967, Brani’i^
•a Airlines,
food exist in France not just in res
taurants but also around the family
table. The latter are reflected in
“French Cuisine’for All. ”
“French cooking has changed be
cause French stomachs have
changed,” she said. “Before, we had
time to sit down for long lunches.
Now a man is working, traffic is
heavy, he has no time to go home to
lunch. He goes to restaurants for
business lunches and that makes the
cuisine of France still live in res
taurants at least.
“People are also more active.
Women work. They don’t have time
to simmer one of those brown sauces
on the stove for six hours.”
Her latest American edition, for
example, tells how to degrease soups
and other dishes. That, said Berth
olle, is the basis of the so-called new
method. Much lighter dishes. “I cer
tainly don’t eat like I used to 30 years
ago — that was too heavy.
“Now there is a tendency among
families to skip the first course or to
serve a cold first course, and have
one main dish which can be a big
soup with meat, or a ‘ragout’ or
bourguignon’ (stew). The one-dish
meal is coming in seriously in France
in homes.”
A comparison of her third cook-
ESISD renews
murch’s permits
ize w I
|By JENNIFER AFFLERBACH
Battalion Staff
i College Station school board
proved a six-month extension of
ool facility use by three local
brehes at its meeting Monday
ht.
Recording to board policy, the
jiches must make a new request
Mb' six months for permission to
ischool buildings as temporary
jting places while their own faci-
ties are being built,
flowing the churches to use
ol buildings is “one way we can
nore use for our buildings” and
iort the community, said John C.
|or, school board president.
Tie hoard also approved the dis-
Js audit reports for the fiscal year
|nd ng August 31, 1980. School
|d Trustee Bruce Robeck com-
Hjented Donald Ney, assistant su-
dntendent, William Goodwin,
ptor of business services, and all
> who worked on the reports for
i^oming through with essentially
“i marks from the auditors.”
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book with her first — “Mastering the
Art of French Cooking, Vol. I” —
written in collaboration with Fren
chwoman Simone Beck and Amer
ican Julia Child — shows the older
book calling for flour in many sauces
that Bertholle now makes without
flour.
Bertholle, in private life the very
traditional Countess de Naleche, re
mains devoted to many old methods.
She has no food processor in the
kitchen of her country home in
Vouzeron, south of Orleans, where
she has lived since her husband,
Henri, died last year. Processors
were invented in France and those
designed for home use at first were
sold only abroad because French
consumers, slow to accept new ways,
were not interested.
Only in the past year or so have
they suddenly discovered the ap
pliances.
“It’s unbelievable how many
young'French women are buying
those processors to make purees,
she scolded. “I put vegetables
through a sieve twice to make a
puree. I don’t think those machines
save time. You have to wash all the
parts each time. Twice a year I use a
blender to make brandade de morue
(cod with garlic and mashed pota
toes). However, the non-sticking
pans are popular in France and I like
those. Barbecue and fireplace cook
ing also are new to France.”
Bertholle is well known in France
as a writer for the Paris newspaper
France Soir and as a cookbook au
thor. Her second book, “Secrets of
Great French Restaurants,” has
been published in eight languages,
including English.
“Mastering the Art of French
Cooking, Vol. I,” published in En
glish only, made Bertholle and her
co-authors household idols in the
United States, but the book and
Child are quite unknown in France.
In the 1960s, Bertholle, Beck and
Child ran a cooking school in Paris.
Most of their pupils were Americans,
Bertholle recalled.
“They always asked why, why,
when I would tell them to do some
thing,” she said. “To ask why is very
American.
“I told them there was a little girl
and she wanted to look at what was
inside her beautiful doll. So she
opened the doll with scissors and
then there was no more doll.
“Too much precision in cooking
will kill the beauty of the dish.”
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1816 Texas Avenue
907 Highway 30
The board voted to submit a re
quest for $180,212 in funds from the
Department of Education Regional
Office in Dallas for the 1981-82 Head
Start Program. The funds will be
shared by the College Station Inde
pendent School District and the
Bryan Independent School District.
College Station will have 75 students
participating in the program and
Bryan will have 275.
“We should be able to get (the
grant) without any trouble,” said
Assistant Superintendent H.R. Bur
nett.
In information items, Ney
announced that, in accordance with a
state law requiring all taxing jurisdic
tions to use a market valuation of 100 ,
percent, CSISD will switch from its
current 80 percent ratio beginning
with the 1981 tax roll.
“We’re not changing the tax dol
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Page 5