features
June 22,1!
Warped
By Scott McCullar
‘Mr. Ice Cream’ tells all
about summertime treat
United Press International
UNIVERSITY PARK, Pa. —
Professor Phillip G. Keeney
takes a lick from a cherry-
flavored ice cream cone at the
Penn State University campus
creamery. He steps back, squint
ing at it from behind large
bifocals.
“Does yours taste OK?” the
man many consider the world’s
premier ice cream connoisseur
asks a mere novice, who has his
mouth wrapped around
another cone and detects no
thing but fresh, pure sweetness.
“I don’t think mine has
enough cherry pieces,” Keeney
says with the air of a disgruntled
supervisor, perhaps about to
walk through the door of the
adjacent ice cream plant to bawl
out the employee responsible
for shortchanging him on cher
ry parts.
Keeney, a professor of food
science at Penn State, teaches a
two-week course each winter,
nine hours a day, on the making
of ice cream. Although universi
ty students can attend, most of
the 70 to 80 students are execu
tives and employees of ice cream
makers and suppliers from
around the world.
Keeney has published dozens
of papers on ice cream flavor
and structure, has done consult
ing work on three continents
and has testified before congres
sional hearings.
He also oversees the making
of 100,000 gallons annually of
ice cream renowned for its quali
ty throughout Pennsylvania,
which is the nation’s No. 2 ice
cream-producing state behind
California.
“There aren’t really any sec
rets about ice cream,” Keeney
said. “It’s all written down.
Everyone uses pretty much the
same equipment. The formula’s
the same. It all comes down to
how well it’s monitored — the
attention to detail and checking
incoming ingredients.”
In the ice cream course, the
students make about 50 diffe
rent types of ice cream. They
can change the ways of making it
by altering things like milk fat
content and the amount of air
allowed in the mixture.
“People think it’s great to eat
50 different ice creams, but it
gets to be kind of a drag,” said
Keeney, whose own favorite is
butter pecan.
Keeney, who grew up on a
farm in Cedar Grove, N.J., said
soft serve ice cream, often
actually ice milk, generally has a
fat content of 3 to 4 percent,
while federal regulations man
date that its frozen counterpart
contain at least 10 percent fat.
“There was quite a bit of re
sistance by hard ice cream to the
growth of soft serve,” Keeney
said. “They thought it was just a
little guy on the highway with no
sophistication who was a nui
sance. They thought he would
never last, and boy, were they
wrong.”
Another federal standard re
quires ice cream to weigh at least
4.5 pounds per gallon. That
limits the amount of air that goes
into it, although Keeney said
some air is needed.
“Ice cream to be ice cream has
to have air,” he said. “Without
“A lot of manufacturers
will want to keep the
word artificial off the
ingredients’ label, so
they won’t use only arti
ficial. The vast majority
of public cannot tell the
difference between
something thafs all
natural or the mix of
real and artificial fla vor-
ing. ” — Professor Phil
lip G. Keeney of Penn
State University
air it would have greasy charac
ter — the air makes it spongy.”
Keeney said most minimum-
priced ice cream has 100 percent
“overrun,” meaning it has the
maximum allowable air content
so that the maker ends up with
twice as much ice cream as ori
ginal mix. Middle-priced ice
cream has about 80 percent
overrun and expensive ice
cream has 20 to 70 percent.
“Some people can detect the
difference and it might bother
them (to have a higher overrun)
but people discriminate diffe
rently,” Keeney said. “This is
what food manufacturers are
dealing with all the time — you
can’t please 100 percent of the
people.”
Keeney said some ice creams
that advertise themselves as all
natural will list nothing more
than fat, skim milk, sugar and
natural flavoring in their ingre
dients.
Others will add whey, corn
syrup, gums and stabilizers with
chemical-sounding names like
propylene glycol alginate de
signed to protect against “heat
shock” — the fluctuations in
temperature of the product as it
is shipped, making it progres
sively coarser between manufac
ture and consumption.
“You want to design a pro
duct that has good eating char
acteristics but will withstand the
abuses of the marketplace,”
Keeney said.
To protect against heat shock
in ice cream brought home,
Keeney recommends it be
bought in smaller quantities.
“Self-defrosting refrigerators
are murder on ice cream and
many other foods,” he said. “But
people have the impression ice
cream out of the carton is diffe
rent from that dipped out of the
tub at an ice cream store. It’s
exactly the same.”
The man who is known by
some in the industry as “Mr. Ice
Cream” had a word of advice for
those ready to plow into their
favorite frozen dessert on a hot
summer’s day — lick.
“Taste sweetens on the tip of
the tongue, and ice cream is
sweet, so you’ll get the most
from it if you lick,” Keeney said,
though admitting after a chomp
from his cherry cone and
thoughtful pause, “I guess I like
to suck.”
He said ice cream manufac
turers have “tried every flavor
Now You Know
United Press International
If you think that oceanic oil
spills are the major cause of
coastal water pollution, think
again.
Researchers have discovered
that rainstorm runoffs from
neighborhoods, industries and
highways may contribute more
near-shore oil than many of the
well-publicized tanker disasters.
Chemical oceanographers
Eva Hoffman and James
Quinnn, of the University of
Rhode Island, have found that
upper Narragansett Bay and its
attendant rivers are literally
awash in automobile oil and
home heating fuel.
According to Hoffman,
urban runoff “many contribute
up to 41 percent of the hydro
carbons found in rivers and the
bay. Oil spills contribute only
one percent.”
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Ice cream is divided into three
different flavoring categories
for all-natural, artificial and a
mix of the two in which natural
flavoring is dominant.
“A lot of manufacturers will
want to keep the word artificial
off the ingredients’ label, so they
won’t use only artificial,”
Keeney said. “The vast majority
of public cannot tell the differ
ence between something that’s
all natural or the mix of real and
artificial flavoring.
“Half or more of vanilla ice
cream is artificially flavored, but
there’s no good substitute for
chocolate or nut flavoring.
There’s really very little artificial
flavoring (outside of vanilla)
used in the ice cream industry.”
The hard ice cream industry
grew in the 1920s and 1930s and
took off especially after World
War II. When people began
having good freezing facilities in
their homes, they purchased ice
cream in supermarkets instead
of making a trip to the local soda
parlor. Now 80 percent of ice
cream products are sold
through supermarkets, grocery
stores and convenience stores.
The International Associa
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all ice cream products (including
ice milk, sherbets and some
other frozen desserts) in 1980
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THAT HEADACHE
HAS A MEANING
Headache Is among the most com
mon health problems bt America to
day. It is estimated that in the United
States alone, some 2 million people are
experiencing headaches at any given
moment. Consequently, this is a com
mon presenting complaint in the office
of the doctor of chiropractic.
By far, most headaches result from
two major causes (1) tension resulting
from involuntary contraction of the
neck, scalp and forehead muscles, and
(2) distention and stretching of blood
vessels because of increased blood flow
to the tissues of the brain. The brain
Itself is incapable of feeling pain. The
"ache” of headache results from pain-
sensitlve nerve fibers located within the
arteries and membranes covering the
brain which produce pain Impulses as a
response to being stretched.
Though some headaches have ob
vious explanations, such as those
resulting from such simple causes as
over-indulgence of food or drink,
eyestrain, consSpadon and sinusitis,
others can be caused by more serious
conditions such as glaucoma, peptic
ulcers, low' blood sugar and brain
tumor. Research has also revealed that
a common cause of tension headache
can be traced to problems associated
with the cervical spine (bones ki the
neck] as well as with the teporal Joint of
the Jaw (the TM Joint). Many times,
headache can be related to musculo
skeletal problems which have resulted
from Injuries having occurred in the
past, such as falls, strains and whiplash-
type Injuries.
One should not delude oneself into
assuming that headaches are “normal"
and that they are easily corrected with
pain-killers. Seeking relief by controll
ing the pain of headache could allow a
mors serious underlying cause to re
main untreated.
If you have headaches, particularly If
they are chronic or recurring, It would
be wise to seek qualified professional
help as early as possible. Should you
seek the services of a doctor of
PRESENTED IN THE INTEREST OF BETTER
HEALTH BY THE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC ASSOCIATION
AND
COLLEGE STATION CHIROPRACTIC CENTER
DR. KEVIN G. SCHACHTERLE
696-2100
chiropractic, after a comprehmMc
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your headaches, ha wfl tithe btjfi|
treatment program sultfd to you pi
Ocular problem or racommuvl i
propriate referral to anothe |
tloner of the healing arts.
For further information & i
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Culpepper Plaza — Next to Games Galore
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